The trajectory of Burberry transformed dramatically with the advent of the First World War, an event that provided the ultimate proving ground for its specialized outerwear and propelled one specific design into global prominence. While the company had established a solid reputation for its innovative gabardine fabric and practical garments among explorers, adventurers, and the gentry, it was the widespread adoption by the British military that served as the catalyst for its most significant breakthrough, fundamentally altering its market position and brand perception.
Prior to the war, Burberry’s reputation was meticulously built on the back of its pioneering gabardine, patented by Thomas Burberry in 1888. This revolutionary, tightly woven cotton fabric was celebrated for its exceptional breathability, durability, and most importantly, its water-repellent qualities, achieved without the heavy, often uncomfortable rubberisation common in contemporary raincoats. This innovation resonated with a growing demand for functional, yet comfortable, outdoor wear. The brand had already garnered significant acclaim through associations with intrepid individuals: Ernest Shackleton wore Burberry gabardine on his Antarctic expeditions in the early 1900s, as did Roald Amundsen on his successful journey to the South Pole in 1911, and George Mallory in his attempts to conquer Mount Everest. These high-profile endorsements not only showcased the fabric’s resilience in extreme conditions but also imbued the brand with an aura of rugged reliability and adventurous spirit, setting it apart from competitors in the nascent outerwear market.
Records indicate that by 1912, Burberry had already submitted a design to the War Office for an officer’s rain-resistant coat. This initiative likely stemmed from a broader understanding of the military’s perennial need for durable, weatherproof attire, an area where existing heavy wool greatcoats proved inadequate in wet conditions. With the outbreak of the First World War in 1914, the urgent requirement for robust, functional outerwear for military officers operating in the muddy, waterlogged conditions of the Western Front’s trenches became paramount. The conventional, heavier wool overcoats offered insufficient protection against persistent rain and biting winds, quickly becoming waterlogged and cumbersome. Burberry responded to this critical demand by adapting its existing Tielocken coat, a buttonless, belted gabardine wrap coat introduced in 1912.
The adaptations for military use were precise and functionally driven, transforming the Tielocken into the now-iconic 'Trench Coat.' Key military-specific features were integrated: shoulder epaulets were added for attaching rank insignia, distinguishing officers in the field; D-rings, typically on the belt, allowed officers to clip essential equipment such as map cases, binoculars, or even swords, keeping their hands free and gear accessible; and storm flaps, including a unique gun flap on the right shoulder, provided additional protection against rain and recoil from rifles. A deep back yoke was designed to allow rainwater to run off, preventing saturation, while throat latches offered superior protection against wind and cold. This enhanced garment, blending practical innovation with strategic utility, quickly gained official approval and was widely commissioned for British officers, including Field Marshal Douglas Haig. While exact production numbers from the wartime period are difficult to ascertain definitively due to the exigencies of conflict, historical accounts suggest hundreds of thousands were produced, effectively making it standard issue for officers by the war's later stages. Burberry was not the sole supplier, as other manufacturers also produced similar coats under War Office contracts, but Burberry's original design and gabardine quality quickly became the benchmark.
The Trench Coat's robust construction, exceptional weather resistance due to the tightly woven gabardine, and its practical design elements made it an indispensable piece of kit during the war. Its widespread use by officers not only highlighted its functional superiority in the most challenging environments but also imbued it with an aura of prestige, leadership, and capability. The garment became synonymous with the stoicism and resilience of British officers. Following the armistice in 1918, returning officers continued to wear their trench coats in civilian life. This organic adoption by the public, driven by its wartime association and inherent practicality, cemented the trench coat’s status as an iconic item of clothing, symbolising courage, integrity, and a certain sartorial elegance that transcended its military origins.
The post-war period witnessed a significant expansion of Burberry’s market reach, both domestically and internationally. The company's reputation, forged in the trenches, led to an unprecedented surge in demand for its distinctive outerwear. Many ex-servicemen, accustomed to the coat's reliability and proud of its associations, became loyal customers. This powerful word-of-mouth endorsement, combined with the coat’s practical appeal for diverse civilian uses – from business wear to casual protection against the elements – propelled its commercial success. By the early 20th century, Burberry had already begun to establish an international presence, with key stores and distributors in major global cities like Paris and New York, a strategy that capitalized on its growing brand recognition. Post-war, these international outposts became crucial for global expansion, allowing Burberry to leverage the trench coat's newfound fame on a worldwide scale. The trench coat became a staple, adopted by a diverse range of individuals, from public figures and Hollywood stars in the inter-war period to ordinary citizens, further embedding the brand into the cultural fabric. The economic boom of the "Roaring Twenties" also provided a fertile ground for luxury and semi-luxury goods, allowing Burberry to thrive.
This era also saw the formalization of Burberry’s brand identity, a crucial step in its evolution from a functional clothing manufacturer to a recognizable international brand. In 1901, the company registered its distinctive Equestrian Knight logo, featuring a knight on horseback carrying a lance and shield with the Latin motto 'Prorsum,' meaning 'forward.' This emblem eloquently conveyed the brand’s values of protection, honor, and innovation, linking its functional heritage with an aspirational image. The consistent application of this logo across products, advertising materials, and storefronts helped to create a cohesive and recognizable brand presence as it expanded globally, predating the widespread use of corporate branding strategies. The logo served as a visual shorthand for quality and reliability, reinforcing the message of forward-thinking design and durability that was so powerfully demonstrated by the trench coat.
Under the continued stewardship of the Burberry family, the company focused on maintaining the quality and innovative spirit of its founder. While Thomas Burberry gradually stepped back from day-to-day operations in the 1910s, passing the leadership to his sons Arthur and Thomas, and later to his grandson Edward, the commitment to research and development in textiles and garment design remained paramount. They oversaw the company’s expansion and the consolidation of its brand identity. The continuous refinement of gabardine, ensuring its consistent quality and performance, and the adaptation of its core designs, allowed Burberry to remain relevant and competitive in a changing fashion landscape, even as other luxury houses emerged and the market became more segmented. They diversified the product range to include other gabardine outerwear, luggage, and accessories, capitalising on the fabric's renown while strategically maintaining the trench coat at the core of their identity.
By the mid-20th century, Burberry had firmly established itself as a significant player in the global outerwear market and an emerging force in luxury apparel. The trench coat, born of military necessity and refined for the masses, became synonymous with the brand's name, cementing its place as a design classic. This breakthrough was not merely a design success but a testament to the strategic integration of material innovation, functional design tailored to specific needs, astute market positioning that leveraged both military prestige and civilian utility, and a strong, evolving brand identity. This foundational period elevated Burberry from a respected British manufacturer to an internationally recognized symbol of British heritage, quality, and timeless style.